Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera): Care and Reblooming

The Christmas cactus looks nothing like a cactus: no spines, flat segmented stems, and it flowers just when it is darkest outside — in December. Pink, red, white and orange flowers hang from the stem tips like Christmas decorations. Owners usually ask why it will not flower or why it drops its buds. Here is how to care for it through the year and get it ready to bloom.

What is a Christmas cactus

The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is an epiphytic cactus from the tropical mountain forests of south-eastern Brazil. In the wild it grows on tree trunks and branches in humid air and dappled light, so its care is quite different from that of desert cacti. Most plants sold are hybrids of S. truncata (toothed segments, often called Thanksgiving cactus) and S. × buckleyi (rounded segments).

It is often confused with the Easter cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), which flowers in spring, has rounded segments without teeth and upward-facing star-shaped flowers.

Light, temperature and watering

Give it bright indirect light — an east or west window; midday sun turns the segments reddish and wrinkled. It can spend summer on a shaded balcony. Keep it at 18–25 °C.

View full-size photoBlooming Christmas cactus on a windowsill — flowers of various colors hang from the stem tips.

Unlike desert cacti, it dislikes drying out completely. While growing, water when the top layer is dry with soft, room-temperature water and mist in hot weather. Feed every 2–3 weeks from spring to late summer with half-strength flowering-plant fertiliser.

How to make a Christmas cactus flower

Buds form in short days and cool conditions. From mid-September to the end of October give the plant an “autumn”:

1. 15–18 °C — a cool windowsill or a frost-free glazed balcony.
2. Long nights: 12–14 hours of darkness, with no artificial light in the evening.
3. Less water — just enough to stop the segments shrivelling; stop feeding.

Once buds appear at the segment tips, return to normal watering and warmth, but do not move the pot again.

Why it drops its buds

• Moving or turning the pot — buds orient towards the light, and a change of position makes the plant shed them.
• Sudden temperature changes — from a cold balcony straight to a radiator.
• Drying out or overwatering while in bud.
• Hot, dry air near heating.

After flowering and repotting

After flowering let it rest for 4–6 weeks with moderate watering in a cool spot. Then shape the plant by twisting off (not cutting) excess or long segments. Repot young plants yearly after flowering and mature ones every 2–3 years in a light, slightly acidic epiphyte or cactus mix with added bark and peat. Use a wide, shallow pot, as the roots are shallow. See how to repot houseplants.

View full-size photoPropagating Christmas cactus: cuttings are dried before planting in soil.

Propagation from segments

1. In spring or summer twist off a cutting of 2–3 segments.
2. Let it dry for 1–2 days.
3. Push the bottom segment 1 cm into moist, light compost or perlite, or stand it in water.
4. Roots appear in 2–4 weeks. Plant several cuttings per pot for a fuller plant.

Why segments wilt or turn red

• Soft, wrinkled segments in moist soil — roots rotted from overwatering or cold.
• Wrinkled segments in dry soil — thirst.
• Reddish segments — too much sun, cold or a cramped pot.
• No flowers — no cool, short days in autumn.

Is the Christmas cactus safe

The Christmas cactus is considered non-toxic to people, cats and dogs, so it makes a safe gift for any room. More cold-season bloomers: winter-flowering houseplants; for succulents see succulents at home. Browse potted plants.

FAQ

When does a Christmas cactus flower?

Usually from late November to January. With proper autumn preparation it may bloom earlier or again in late winter.

Can I move it while it is flowering?

Better not: changes in position and light often cause buds and flowers to drop.

View full-size photoChristmas cactus cuttings are dried for 1–2 days before planting in soil.

How often should I water it?

When the top layer of soil is dry — about weekly in summer, less in autumn while preparing to bloom.

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.

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