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Flowers in Jewellery: From Art Nouveau to Real Flowers in Resin

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Flowers are one of the oldest and best-loved motifs in jewellery. Gold wreaths, bouquet brooches, enamel irises and clear resin holding real petals: every era has found its own way to capture floral beauty. Here is how the tradition has evolved and how to choose and wear floral jewellery today.

A bouquet to go with a gift: peony-style roses and flowers in a box.

Floral jewellery
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A little history

Flowers in jewellery19th centuryVictorian broocheslanguage of flowersAround 1900Art Nouveau, enamelirises, orchidsTodayresin with flowersminimalism
How floral motifs in jewellery have changed
  • Antiquity. Gold wreaths of leaves and flowers have been found in ancient Greek burials, and plant patterns decorated Scythian gold.
  • The Victorian era. In the 19th century brooches and rings with flowers “spoke” the language of flowers: forget-me-not for remembrance, pansy for thoughts of a loved one.
  • Art Nouveau. Around 1900 jewellers such as René Lalique created exquisite pieces with irises, orchids and poppies in enamel, glass and horn.
  • The 20th century. Floral brooches set with gemstones became a classic of evening dress.

For the meanings of flowers often seen in jewellery, see “The language of flowers”.

Floral brooch
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Floral jewellery today

  • Resin jewellery with real dried flowers: pendants, earrings and rings, each one unique.
  • Enamel and ceramics: bright handmade floral earrings and brooches.
  • Minimalist pendants shaped like a flower or leaf in silver or gold.
  • Fresh-flower jewellery: bridesmaids’ wrist corsages, crowns and hair clips for celebrations; see “Fresh flower accessories”.

Floral earrings
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Wearing and caring

  • Let a large floral brooch or earrings be the single statement of your outfit.
  • Keep resin pieces out of direct sun and heat: the flowers inside can fade and the resin can yellow.
  • Enamel dislikes knocks and abrasive cleaners: wipe it with a soft cloth.
  • Store pieces separately so they do not scratch each other.

Flower ring
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Flowers and jewellery as a gift

A floral piece of jewellery and a bouquet in matching colours make a thoughtful birthday or anniversary gift, perhaps with soft roses, peony-style varieties or a small flower box. To preserve flowers from a special bouquet for jewellery, see “How to make a herbarium”.

FAQ

Which flowers appear most often in jewellery?

Roses, lilies, irises, forget-me-nots, daisies and cherry blossom, each with its own meaning.

Will real flowers in resin spoil?

If they are properly dried and set, they last for years, though they may lose a little brightness over time.

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.