The gladiolus is a late-summer flower that almost everyone in Ukraine associates with 1 September and the first day of school. Tall spikes with a dozen ruffled florets come in nearly every colour, from white and lime green to near-black burgundy. Here is what the gladiolus symbolises, how to grow it, how to store the corms until spring, and how to care for a bouquet so every bud opens. Dates by region: when to plant and lift gladioli.
The name comes from the Latin gladius, "sword": the leaves are narrow and pointed like blades — hence its other English name, sword lily. The genus has around 300 species; most grow in South Africa, but a few wild species occur in Europe, including Ukraine, where some are protected.
Garden gladioli are hybrids bred mainly from South African species. Breeders have created thousands of varieties: large- and small-flowered, with smooth or heavily ruffled petals, single-coloured or with a contrasting "eye".
In the language of flowers the gladiolus stands for strength of character, integrity and faithfulness. It is often said that ancient Romans linked it with gladiators, but there is little reliable evidence — it is more likely a pretty legend born of the name. The gladiolus is the traditional birth flower of August, so it makes a fitting gift for late-summer birthdays. Learn more in our guide to the language of flowers.
Similar spikes are found on crocosmia (montbretia), a relative from the same iris family, as well as on delphinium, snapdragon and foxtail lily. The gladiolus and the iris share a family: both belong to Iridaceae.
Go by soil temperature rather than the calendar: plant gladioli once the soil at 10 cm has warmed to +8…+10 °C. In southern Ukraine that is usually the second half of April, in the centre late April to mid-May, and in the north and west mid-May. Corms planted in cold soil sit idle and are more prone to disease.
For flowers from July to September, plant in batches every 10–14 days until mid-June. Early varieties flower about 70–75 days after planting, mid-season ones after 80–90 days and late ones after 100 days or more.
Two to three weeks before planting, peel the dry outer husks, sort the corms (discard soft ones or those with dark spots) and set them shoots-up somewhere bright and cool so they wake up and produce strong sprouts. You can treat them with a fungicide according to the label before planting.
Depth is about three times the corm height: 10–12 cm for large corms, 8–10 cm for medium and 4–6 cm for cormels. Space plants 15–20 cm apart with 30–40 cm between rows. Stake tall varieties at planting time or grow them along a fence so the spikes don’t flop in the wind.
The main pest of gladioli is thrips: leaves develop silvery patches and flowers become deformed. Badly affected plants are best removed with their root ball.
Water gladioli infrequently but deeply — 10–15 litres per square metre once a week, more often in heat — so the water reaches the roots. Loosen or mulch the soil afterwards. Feed three times: nitrogen at the 2–3 leaf stage, a balanced fertiliser at 5–6 leaves and a potassium-phosphorus feed as buds appear. For bouquets, cut the spike early in the morning when the lowest 1–2 flowers have opened, using a sharp knife at an angle and leaving at least 4 leaves on the plant.
Colours range from white and lime to almost black, plus bicolours.
Gladioli do not survive Ukrainian winters in the ground, so they are lifted in autumn.
Gladioli are among the longest-lasting cut flowers: with good care they last 7–12 days, the spike opening gradually from the bottom up.
In Ukraine, gladioli have long symbolised Knowledge Day, the first day of school: a tall spike is easy to carry, copes with the heat and lasts in the classroom. Today the choice is wider, and pupils and parents increasingly pick compact arrangements with chrysanthemums, roses or seasonal asters. If you love gladioli, combine them with greenery and small flowers in a tall, slim bouquet for a modern look. Read about different flowers for bouquets in types of flowers.
2–3 weeks before planting, take the corms out of storage and gently peel off the dry outer husks to reveal any diseased spots and buds. Cut out damaged areas with a clean knife and dust the cuts with ash. Then lay the corms base-down in a single layer in a bright, warm place: buds will wake up and produce 1–3 cm shoots. Before planting you can soak them for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution to prevent rot.
When the soil at 10 cm reaches +10 °C — usually late April or May.
Four to six weeks after flowering, before frost, in dry weather.
Cure, clean and store them at 5–10 °C in a dry, airy place, checking regularly.
With good care, 7–12 days.
Strength of character, integrity and faithfulness. It is the traditional birth flower of August.
When the soil at 10 cm reaches +8…+10 °C: second half of April in the south, late April to May in the centre and mid-May in the north.
About three times the corm height: 10–12 cm for large corms, 8–10 cm for medium and 4–6 cm for cormels.
Better not: return them to a bed only after 3–4 years, or diseases such as fusarium wilt build up.
Author: Maria Svitlovir
Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.
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