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Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen): Care and Varieties

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Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen): Care and Varieties
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Aglaonema is a plant for anyone who wants colourful leaves without fussy care. Green-silver varieties tolerate shade and infrequent watering, while pink and red ones look like a bouquet in a pot. It grows slowly but compactly and becomes a lush clump over the years. Here is how to choose a variety for your window, how to water and how to propagate aglaonema.

What is aglaonema

Aglaonema, or Chinese evergreen, is an evergreen herbaceous plant of the arum family from the tropical forests of South-East Asia. It has upright, succulent stems and leathery leaves on stalks, and grows beneath the forest canopy in the wild. Mature plants occasionally flower with a pale spathe and spadix, like a peace lily, followed by red berries.

Green or red varieties: how to choose

  • Green-silver — Silver Bay, Silver Queen, Maria, Cutlass. The toughest: they grow even far from a window and tolerate 15–16 °C.
  • Pink and red — Red Valentine, Lady Valentine, Siam Aurora, Crete, Pink Star. They need more light and warmth (not below 18 °C) or the colour fades.
  • Cream-variegated — Snow White, Pictum Tricolor (camouflage pattern) — fussier about humidity.

The rule is simple: the brighter the leaves, the more light the plant needs.

Light and temperature

Green varieties are happy with indirect light or even part shade further into the room. Put red and pink ones near an east or west window; midday sun scorches the leaves. Ideal temperature is 20–25 °C. Aglaonema hates cold draughts and sudden changes, which make the leaves darken and wilt.

Various aglaonema varieties in pots with green, silver, pink, and red leaves on a windowsill and table
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The photo shows the variety of aglaonema leaf colors.

Watering and humidity

Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil are dry — usually weekly in summer, less in winter. It copes with underwatering better than waterlogging, which rots the roots and stem base. Use soft, rested water. Moderately humid air prevents brown tips: mist or use a pebble tray. Feed every 2–3 weeks from spring to autumn.

Repotting

Aglaonema grows slowly, so repot young plants yearly in spring and mature ones every 2–3 years. Use a loose, airy mix: all-purpose compost with perlite, bark and a little charcoal. Go up only 2–3 cm — a snug pot encourages a bushier plant. See how to repot houseplants.

How to propagate aglaonema

  • Division — easiest: when repotting, separate young basal shoots with roots and pot them up.
  • Tip cuttings — root a tip with a few leaves in water or damp perlite; roots appear in 3–6 weeks.
  • Stem sections — lay 5–7 cm pieces of bare stem on moist compost; new shoots grow from the buds.

Why leaves turn yellow or dry

  • Yellow lower leaves — natural ageing, or overwatering if widespread.
  • Dry brown edges — dry air or hard water.
  • Curling, darkening leaves — cold or draughts.
  • Red varieties fading — too little light.
  • White fluff in leaf axils — mealybugs.

More in houseplant problems and symptoms.

Is aglaonema toxic

Yes. Like other aroids, it contains calcium oxalate crystals in its leaves, stems and berries. The sap irritates skin and mucous membranes, and chewed leaves cause drooling and mouth pain in cats and dogs. Keep it away from pets and children and wear gloves when pruning. More tough plants: hard-to-kill houseplants; browse potted plants.

Aglaonema propagation: clump division, tip cuttings in water, and stem cuttings on substrate on a table with gardening tools
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Different methods of aglaonema propagation are shown.

FAQ

Can aglaonema grow in shade?

Green-silver varieties can — they do well in part shade. Red and pink ones need bright indirect light.

Why does aglaonema grow so slowly?

That is its nature: it produces only a few new leaves a year. Light, warmth and regular feeding speed it up a little.

Should I remove aglaonema flowers?

It is optional. Flowering takes energy, so many growers cut the stems to favour leaf growth.

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.

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