Birthday
HydrangeasThis article was prepared with the support of UFL flower delivery. The chrysanthemum is the flower of autumn: in the garden it blooms from late summer until frost, as a cut flower it lasts 2–3 weeks, and in a pot it brightens a balcony until November. For a full bush that survives winter, choose the right group of varieties and do a few simple things on time. Flower forms are covered in detail in our article on types of chrysanthemums; here we focus on growing.
Which chrysanthemums to grow
| Group | Features | Winter |
|---|---|---|
| Korean (small-flowered) | Bushes 30–100 cm, flowers 2–9 cm, bloom from August–September. Clara Curtis, Mary Stoker, Sheffield Pink. | Overwinter in the ground under mulch in most of Ukraine. |
| Multiflora (cushion mums) | Naturally form a dense 20–50 cm dome covered in small flowers. Branbeach, Branfountain series. | Semi-hardy: safer to lift and store cool. |
| Large-flowered (cut/exhibition) | Blooms 10–25 cm on tall stems, flowering in October–November. Anastasia, Zembla, Tom Pearce. | Not hardy: lift stools and store at 2–6 °C. |
| Annual | Tricolour, crown and corn chrysanthemums — bright ringed daisies blooming from July. | Grown from seed each year. |
Season calendar
Site and planting
Chrysanthemums are short-day, sun-loving plants: they need at least 6 hours of direct sun, otherwise stems stretch and flowering is late. Choose a sheltered spot without standing water. The soil should be loose, fertile and slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0–7.0). Lighten heavy clay with sand and compost; lime acidic soil with dolomite.
- Plant rooted cuttings and young plants after the last frost — around mid-May in Kyiv — on a cloudy day or in the evening.
- Spacing: 30–40 cm for low varieties, 50–60 cm for tall and cushion types.
- Add compost to the hole, don’t bury the crown, firm the soil and water well.
- Shade for the first few days. Stake tall varieties at planting.
Watering and feeding
Chrysanthemum roots are shallow, so water regularly and evenly — once or twice a week, more often in heat — at the base with settled water. Drying out gives woody stems and small flowers; waterlogging causes rot. A mulch of compost or bark keeps moisture in.
- May–June: every two weeks a nitrogen or balanced fertiliser, or diluted manure tea (1:10), for leafy growth.
- From July: switch to phosphorus and potassium to set buds and improve hardiness. Late-summer nitrogen makes soft growth that overwinters poorly.
- Feed onto moist soil, avoiding the leaves.
Pinching and shaping
Pinch Korean mums for a low, dense bush with hundreds of flowers. When the plant is 15–20 cm tall, remove the tip above the 5th–6th leaf, then repeat on the side shoots. Stop pinching by mid-July, or buds won’t have time to form. Multiflora mums need no pinching — they form a dome by themselves.
Large-flowered varieties are the opposite: keep 1–3 stems and remove all side shoots and extra buds, leaving one central bud per stem. That is how you get 15–20 cm blooms like those at the florist.
Overwintering
After the first frosts and the end of flowering, cut stems back to 10–15 cm. Then it depends on the group:
- Korean mums: earth up, mulch 10–15 cm deep with dry leaves, straw or compost and top with conifer branches. Never lay plastic directly on the plant — it will rot underneath. The main winter danger is not frost but standing meltwater.
- Large-flowered and multiflora: lift with a root ball, place in boxes or pots and keep in a cellar, garage or insulated balcony at 2–6 °C, watering very lightly now and then. In February–March move the stool to a bright, cool place — it will produce shoots for cuttings.
Propagation
Cuttings
The most reliable way to keep a variety true. Take cuttings in spring (March–April) from a sprouting stool, or in June from a garden plant.
- Cut young shoots 8–10 cm long with 3–4 leaves.
- Remove the lower leaves and dip the base in rooting hormone.
- Insert 1.5–2 cm deep in a peat–perlite or peat–sand mix, cover with film and keep at 18–20 °C.
- Roots form in 2–3 weeks. Pot on the rooted cuttings and plant out in May.
Division
Divide Korean mums every 3 years in spring when shoots appear: discard the old centre and replant the young outer pieces with roots.
Seed
Annual chrysanthemums and experimental Korean hybrids are grown from seed; named varieties don’t come true. Surface-sow indoors in February–March; seedlings appear in 1–2 weeks at 18–20 °C.
Potted chrysanthemum after purchase
Potted mums from shops are often treated with growth retardants, which is why they are so compact. Indoors they bloom for 3–6 weeks if kept bright and cool (15–18 °C) and watered regularly so the root ball never dries out.
After flowering, cut the stems back, keep the pot cool and plant it in the garden in spring — many varieties establish and grow taller and bloom later the following year. Multiflora mums can be kept in a balcony container year after year, overwintered in a cellar.
Pests and diseases
| Problem | Signs | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Powdery mildew | White coating on leaves | Good air flow, water at the base, sulphur or copper fungicides. |
| Septoria leaf spot | Brown spots with yellow halo, lower leaves blacken | Remove affected leaves, fungicide, don’t overcrowd. |
| Grey mould | Brown, soggy flower heads in wet autumns | Deadhead, fungicide. |
| Aphids, thrips, mites | Curled leaves, silvery patches, webbing | Insecticide or miticide as directed, biological controls. |
| Chrysanthemum eelworm | Brown wedge-shaped patches between veins, spreading upwards | Destroy the plant; don’t replant mums there for 3 years. |
Chrysanthemums in bouquets
Chrysanthemums are among the longest-lasting cut flowers: with good care they last 2–3 weeks. Their stems are woody, so recut them at an angle with a sharp knife, strip leaves below the waterline and change the water every 2–3 days. They pair well with roses, alstroemeria, lisianthus, eucalyptus and dried flowers. See chrysanthemum bouquets with delivery in Kyiv.
Interesting facts
- Chrysanthemums have been grown in China for at least 1,500 years as a symbol of longevity; “chrysanthemum wine” was drunk in autumn.
- In Japan the chrysanthemum is the emblem of the imperial house, and the Chrysanthemum Festival falls on the 9th day of the 9th lunar month.
- Flower colour doesn’t depend on soil — it is set by the variety (unlike hydrangea).
- Pyrethrum, a natural insecticide, comes from the related Dalmatian daisy (Tanacetum cinerariifolium).
FAQ
When should I pinch chrysanthemums?
First at 15–20 cm tall, last no later than mid-July.
Do chrysanthemums need lifting for winter?
Small-flowered Korean varieties overwinter in the ground under mulch. Large-flowered and cushion mums are safer lifted and stored at 2–6 °C.
Why isn’t my chrysanthemum flowering?
Too little sun, excess nitrogen in late summer, late pinching or early frosts on late varieties.
Can I keep a garden chrysanthemum indoors?
Only briefly: in a warm flat it fades quickly. A bright, cool glazed balcony is better.
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Author: Maria Svitlovir
Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.
