Cattleya is often called the queen of orchids: its flowers are large, often fragrant, with a broad ruffled lip. These were the orchids once pinned to evening gowns as corsages. At home a cattleya is fussier than a phalaenopsis, but give it enough light and the right watering and it will bloom every year.
The genus Cattleya includes around a hundred species of epiphytic orchids from Central and South America, plus thousands of hybrids. It is named after the English horticulturist William Cattley, who flowered one of the first cattleyas in Europe in the early 19th century. The plant has thickened stems called pseudobulbs that store water and nutrients, so cattleyas cope with a short dry spell better than with overwatering.
Cattleyas are loosely split into unifoliate types, with one leaf per pseudobulb and large flowers, and bifoliate types, with smaller but more numerous flowers per spike.
Cattleya labiata — the classic "queen" with pink-lilac flowers and a dark lip.
Cattleya trianae — the national flower of Colombia, blooming in winter.
Cattleya mossiae — the national flower of Venezuela, with large scented spring flowers.
Cattleya walkeriana — compact and well suited to a windowsill.
Hybrids with Brassavola and Laelia — the ones most often sold: tough, in every colour from white and yellow to deep cherry.
Light. Cattleyas need more light than most indoor orchids: an east or west window, or a south window with midday shade. Light green leaves are normal; dark green leaves mean too little light.
Temperature. 20–27 °C by day and 5–8 °C cooler at night: the drop helps flower spikes form.
Watering. When the bark is almost completely dry. Soaking the pot in warm water for 10–15 minutes and then letting it drain fully works well. Do not let water sit in the leaf axils.
Humidity. About 50–70 %; a tray of wet clay pebbles or a humidifier helps while the heating is on.
Feeding. During active growth, use orchid fertiliser at half strength when watering.
The flower spike emerges from a sheath at the top of a mature pseudobulb. A cattleya usually fails to bloom because of too little light, no day–night temperature drop or too frequent watering. Many species rest after a new pseudobulb matures: water less until new growth starts. The flowers last about 2–4 weeks on the plant.
At home cattleyas are propagated by division when repotting. Cut the rhizome with a clean knife so each piece keeps at least 3–4 pseudobulbs and live roots. Dust the cuts with crushed charcoal, pot into bark and do not water for the first week, just mist the air around. Smaller divisions take longer to flower.
Many species and hybrids are, especially in the morning; the strength of the scent depends on the variety.
Why are the pseudobulbs shrivelling?
Either a long drought or roots that have rotted from overwatering. Check the roots when you repot.
Can a cattleya live on a north-facing windowsill?
It will probably grow but not flower. Without bright light, use a grow light.
Author: Maria Svitlovir
Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.