Schefflera Care: Pruning and Why It Drops Leaves

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Schefflera is an indoor “tree” with leaves like an open umbrella or a hand with outstretched fingers. It grows fast, fills a corner nicely and is easy to shape by pruning — from a bushy plant to a single-stem tree. Its owners’ main complaint is sudden leaf drop. Here is how to care for schefflera so it keeps its crown, and what to do if leaves are already falling.

Dwarf and Australian umbrella trees

Schefflera is a genus of evergreen trees and shrubs in the ivy family (Araliaceae). Two species are commonly grown indoors:

• Dwarf umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola) — compact, with small glossy leaflets, 7–9 per “umbrella”. Many variegated cultivars have yellow or cream markings: Gold Capella, Janine, Charlotte. The toughest choice for a flat.
• Australian umbrella tree (Schefflera actinophylla, formerly Brassaia) — large leaves on long stalks; a 10–15 m tree in the wild, it reaches 2–3 m indoors and needs space.

Light and temperature

Schefflera likes bright indirect light. Green forms accept light shade, but variegated ones need more light or they turn green. Midday summer sun can scorch the leaves. Aim for 18–24 °C in summer and 14–18 °C in winter — a cool winter with less water suits it well. Below 12 °C it starts dropping leaves.

View full-size photoSchefflera arboricola and actinophylla: difference in leaf size and shape.

Watering and humidity

Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil are dry, even less often in a cool winter. Water standing in the saucer is the main cause of root rot and black leaf spots. Schefflera tolerates dry air better than many tropical plants, but near a radiator mist or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge. Feed every 2–3 weeks from April to September with a foliage-plant fertiliser.

Pruning and shaping

Schefflera branches readily after pruning. In spring cut back the tip or long shoots just above a leaf — new branches will sprout and the crown will thicken. For a tree shape, remove side shoots low on the stem and pinch the tips at the height you want. Several plants with braided stems in one pot is a popular way to make it look fuller.

Soil and repotting

Use foliage-plant compost with perlite or fine bark. Repot young plants every spring and mature ones every 2–3 years; for large specimens, simply replace the top layer of soil. Choose a heavy, stable pot, as a tall plant tips over easily. See how to repot houseplants.

Propagation from cuttings

1. In spring take a 10–15 cm tip cutting with 3–4 leaves.
2. Remove the lower leaves and halve the large upper ones to reduce water loss.
3. Root in water or a peat-perlite mix under a clear cover at 22–25 °C.
4. Roots appear in 3–4 weeks; then pot it up.

Large woody plants are propagated by air layering; seed is rarely available.

View full-size photoPruning encourages branching in schefflera.

Why schefflera drops its leaves

• Overwatering — the most common cause: leaves yellow, darken and fall as roots rot. Let the soil dry and adjust watering.
• Cold and draughts — an open window in winter or a cold sill.
• Too little light — lower leaves drop and the plant gets leggy.
• Stress after moving — schefflera dislikes being moved often.
• Pests — spider mites and scale under the leaves.

More in houseplant problems and symptoms.

Is schefflera toxic

Yes, it contains calcium oxalate crystals. A cat or dog chewing the leaves may suffer mouth irritation, drooling and vomiting, and the sap can irritate human skin. Keep it away from pets and small children and wear gloves when pruning. For other large statement plants, see monstera and ficus; browse potted plants.

FAQ

How often should I water schefflera?

When the top 2–3 cm of soil are dry — usually every 5–7 days in summer and every 10–14 days in a cool winter.

Can I prune schefflera?

Yes, in spring. Cutting above a leaf encourages side branches and a fuller crown.

Does schefflera flower indoors?

Very rarely. It is grown for its leaves; flowers almost never appear indoors.

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.

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