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Ukrainian Namysto: History, Symbolism and Types

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This article was prepared with the support of UFL flower delivery. The namysto, a traditional necklace, is one of the oldest adornments in Ukraine. It goes by many names: monysto, busy, corals, patsiorky, zgardy. For a Ukrainian woman it was more than jewellery: it was a protective charm, a sign of prosperity and part of both festive and everyday dress.

Ukrainian coral namysto
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A little history

The first necklaces were made from whatever nature offered: fruit stones, grains, shells and animal teeth. Later came beads of stone, metal and glass, and then costly imported materials such as coral, pearls and Venetian glass. These pieces were passed down from mother to daughter and treasured as family heirlooms.

Antique Ukrainian namysto
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How the namysto was worn and what it meant

In traditional culture it was considered improper to go out without a namysto. Women wore it on holidays and workdays alike, since it protected against the evil eye and dark forces. It also showed a family's wealth: a poor girl had 2–3 strands, while a wealthy one wore 10–15 or more, from the neck down to the waist. The largest beads went in the centre and the smaller ones towards the ends.

Types of Ukrainian namystoCoralall of Ukraine,a symbol of healthAmberPolissia, Volyn,PrykarpattiaDukachcoin pendant with abow, centre and eastZgardabrass crosses,Hutsul regionPatsiorkyglass beads,incl. VenetianSylianka, gerdanbeadwork collars,Carpathians, Bukovyna
The main types of namysto and the regions where they were worn.

Types of Ukrainian namysto

Coral

The best-known and best-loved namysto across Ukraine. Coral was imported from the Mediterranean and was very expensive, so poorer girls wore glass or ceramic imitations. Bright coral was believed to show that its wearer was healthy, and dull coral was a sign of illness. Red coral with an embroidered vyshyvanka shirt became one of the symbols of Ukrainian dress.

Coral namysto
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Amber

In Polissia, Volyn and Prykarpattia women wore necklaces of "genuine" amber mined locally. The large beads were often combined with coral, and amber was believed to bring health and beauty.

Amber namysto
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Metal pieces: dukach and zgarda

A dukach is a large coin or medallion with a decorative "bow", worn on ribbons or together with coral. The name comes from ducats, European gold coins; later, coins of various states were used. Dukachi were a sign of wealth in central and eastern Ukraine.

A zgarda is a Hutsul necklace of cast brass crosses on a cord or strap, and a salba is a Bukovynian fabric breastplate covered with coins.

Metal jewellery: dukach and zgarda
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Glass beads and pearls

Glass beads were called patsiorky. The most precious came from Venice: painted beads from the island of Murano cost a fortune. Pearls were also a luxury reserved for wealthy families.

Glass patsiorky beads
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Beadwork

In the 19th century, when Czech seed beads became cheap and widely available, beaded necklaces such as sylianky and gerdany spread widely. The Hutsul region, Pokuttia and Bukovyna are especially famous for them, and their patterns are still handed down through generations.

The namysto today

Interest in traditional jewellery is growing again: workshops are reviving old techniques, and coral, dukachi and sylianky are worn not only with a vyshyvanka but also with modern clothes. A good namysto of natural materials is a beautiful, meaningful gift.

FAQ

What does a red namysto symbolise?

Vitality, health and protection against evil. In Ukrainian tradition red is the colour of love and life.

How many strands did girls wear?

From two or three for poorer girls to ten or fifteen for wealthy ones.

Read more about Ukrainian symbols in our article on the main Ukrainian flowers, and order a festive bouquet with flower delivery in Kyiv from UFL.

Photos in this article are by the Treti Pivni workshop and other sources.

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.