UFL logo

Snake Plant (Sansevieria): Types, Varieties and Care

ID:
9037
Total views:
6781
Category:
Last update:


This article was prepared with the support of UFL flower delivery. Sansevieria is an evergreen succulent from the dry regions of Africa, Madagascar and South Asia. It is known as snake plant for its banded leaves and as mother-in-law’s tongue for their sharp tips; in Ukraine it is nicknamed “pike’s tail”. In 2017 DNA studies moved Sansevieria into the genus Dracaena, so catalogues increasingly use Dracaena trifasciata, but shops still sell it under the old name.

Snake plant in a pot
View full-size photo

In short: the snake plant tolerates shade, dry air and infrequent watering. The one rule: don’t overwater — water only when the soil is completely dry, every 3–4 weeks in winter.

About the plant

Its fleshy leaves grow straight from the rhizome and store water, so the plant copes easily with drought. Like many succulents it opens its pores at night (CAM photosynthesis) to save water by day. Mature plants in good light may flower in spring, producing a tall spike of small white tubular flowers with a vanilla-jasmine evening scent.

Snake plant species and cultivars

Telling popular snake plants apartSnake plantS. trifasciataflat sword-like leaves50–120 cm talldozens of cultivarsHahniidwarf bird’s nest15–25 cm tallfor shelves, mini gardensgolden form tooCylindricalS. cylindricatube-like leavesoften braidedup to 1 mMasoniana“whale fin”1–2 very wide leavesup to 25 cm acrossslow-growingEhrenbergiiS. ehrenbergiifan of leavesin two rowsSamurai is a dwarfPinguicula“walking” snake plantshort, thick leavespups on stiltsrare, collectable
Shop labels are often inaccurate — go by leaf shape and rosette size.

Snake plant (S. trifasciata)

The most common species, with flat sword-shaped leaves 50–120 cm tall and dark horizontal bands. Dozens of cultivars have been bred from it:

  • Laurentii — the classic, with a broad yellow leaf margin.
  • Futura Superba — a compact Laurentii, 40–60 cm, with wider leaves.
  • Moonshine — silvery grey, almost plain leaves.
  • Black Coral — dark green leaves with silver banding.
  • Bantel’s Sensation — narrow leaves with white vertical stripes; slow-growing.
  • Twisted Sister — a low rosette of twisted yellow-green leaves.
  • Hahnii and Golden Hahnii — dwarf 15–25 cm rosettes, known as bird’s nest snake plants.

Cylindrical snake plant (S. cylindrica)

Round, tube-like leaves up to 1 m long, often braided or fanned for sale. The compact form Boncel makes a “starfish” of short, thick leaves.

Whale fin (S. masoniana)

The cultivar Mason’s Congo grows just 1–2 very broad leaves up to 25 cm wide. Slow but striking in a minimalist interior.

S. ehrenbergii

Stiff, red-edged leaves fan out in two directions. The dwarf cultivar Samurai suits small pots and terrariums.

Ceylon bowstring hemp (S. zeylanica)

Similar to S. trifasciata but with narrower leaves and a denser light-green zigzag pattern; the two are often confused in shops.

S. kirkii

Broad, wavy leaves with a coppery or bronze tint (Kirkii pulchra ‘Coppertone’). Handsome but slow and less common.

Walking snake plant (S. pinguicula)

Short, thick leaves and baby rosettes on aerial stolons that look like stilts. A collector’s rarity.

Care in brief

FactorRecommendation
LightBright indirect is best; tolerates part shade and even shade. Variegated cultivars lose their pattern in low light.
Temperature18–27 °C in summer, not below 12–15 °C in winter. Cold plus wet soil is the main killer.
WateringOnly when the soil is fully dry: every 1–2 weeks in summer, every 3–4 weeks in winter. Keep water out of the rosette.
HumidityUnimportant; no misting needed. Wipe the leaves free of dust.
SoilCactus and succulent mix, or all-purpose mix with perlite and sand; always use drainage.
FeedingMonthly from April to September with half-strength cactus fertiliser.
RepottingEvery 2–3 years when roots start to bulge or crack the pot. Use a wide, shallow, preferably ceramic pot.

Propagation: what to know

  • Division of the rhizome is quickest and keeps all cultivar traits.
  • Leaf cuttings: cut a leaf into 5–7 cm sections, let them callus and root in sand. Note that yellow-edged cultivars such as Laurentii come back without the edge.
  • Offsets that appear at the edge of the pot.

Common problems

SignCause
Soft leaves yellowing at the baseOverwatering and root rot — repot into dry mix at once and cut out rotten parts.
Leaves flopping or bendingToo little light or too much water.
Dry brown tipsDamage or severe drought — the tip won’t recover but the plant is fine.
Pale patchesSunburn after a sudden move into direct sun.

Snake plants and health

Snake plants are often called “air purifiers” because of a 1989 NASA study. That experiment used sealed chambers; in a normal ventilated home a few plants make no measurable difference to air quality. What is true is that snake plants are very forgiving and thrive even in offices under artificial light.

Caution: the leaves contain saponins and are mildly toxic to cats and dogs, causing vomiting and stomach upset if chewed. Keep the plant where pets can’t nibble it.

In interiors and as a gift

The strong vertical leaves suit modern interiors, offices and hallways, and large plants in floor planters can stand in for a small tree. It makes a great housewarming or office gift: forgiving and long-lived. Choose a green gift in our houseplants with delivery in Kyiv section, and read more in our guide to snake plant care and propagation.

FAQ

How often should I water a snake plant?

When the soil is completely dry: every 1–2 weeks in summer, every 3–4 weeks or less in winter.

Can I keep a snake plant in the bedroom?

Yes — it has no scent and grows happily in moderate light.

Does the snake plant flower?

Yes, mature plants in good light sometimes bloom in spring with fragrant white flowers, most often when slightly pot-bound.

Is mother-in-law’s tongue the same as snake plant?

Yes — both are common names for Sansevieria trifasciata and its cultivars.

Author Maria Svitlovir
View full-size photo

Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.