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Synadenium (African Milk Bush): Care at Home

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This article was prepared with the support of UFL flower delivery. African milk bush (Synadenium grantii), which botanists now place in the genus Euphorbia, is a striking and undemanding houseplant, sometimes called the "love tree". It grows quickly, looks great indoors and forgives many beginner mistakes.

African milk bush
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Important: like all euphorbias, synadenium has toxic sap that irritates skin and mucous membranes. Keep it away from children and pets, and wear gloves when pruning or repotting.

About the plant

Synadenium comes from dry regions of East Africa (Tanzania, Mozambique, Malawi). In the wild it's a shrub or small tree up to 3 m tall; indoors, 60–150 cm. It has fleshy stems and large, oval, glossy leaves. The popular form 'Rubra' has wine-purple leaves that colour up even more in the sun.

Indoors it rarely flowers — small red blooms in winter, mostly on mature plants. It's grown mainly for its foliage.

Red-leaved synadenium
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Care at home

Synadenium: 4 care rulesLightbright; morningsun makes theleaves redderWateringonce the compostdries out; rarelyin winterWarmth22–26 °C in summer,no lower than10–12 °C in winterCaution!the milky sap istoxic — weargloves
Synadenium loves light and warmth and hates overwatering.
FactorWhat it needs
LightBright — a south, east or west window. Morning and evening sun is good; shade from midday summer sun. In shade the stems stretch and red leaves turn green.
Temperature22–26 °C in summer, 12–15 °C in winter, never below 10 °C or it drops its leaves.
WateringWhen the top two-thirds of the compost is dry, with tepid, settled water. Empty the saucer. Sparingly in winter.
HumidityCopes well with dry indoor air. Rinse dust off the leaves with a warm shower, covering the compost.
CompostCactus and succulent mix with coarse sand, perlite and charcoal; drainage is essential.
FeedingMonthly from spring to autumn with a succulent fertiliser.
RepottingYoung plants yearly in spring, mature ones every 2–3 years into a heavy, stable pot.

Synadenium care
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Pruning and shaping

Synadenium grows fast — up to 25 cm a year — so without pruning it becomes a long bare stick. In spring, cut back the tips and overly long stems to encourage branching and a bushy shape. Blot the cut straight away and dust it with charcoal to stop the milky sap.

Propagating from cuttings

  1. In spring or early summer, wearing gloves, take a 10–15 cm tip cutting.
  2. Rinse the cut in warm water to remove the sap and let the cutting dry for 1–2 days.
  3. Plant it in moist sand and peat (or succulent compost).
  4. Keep it warm (20–24 °C) and bright but out of direct sun, watering sparingly.
  5. It will root in 2–4 weeks.

Synadenium cuttings
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Common problems

ProblemCause and fix
Leaf dropCold below 10 °C, draughts, over- or underwatering. Adjust watering and move it somewhere warm.
Leggy stemsToo little light — move it closer to the window and prune.
Leaves losing red colourNot enough sun.
Stem base rottingWaterlogging. Root a healthy tip and replace the compost.
PestsMealybugs, scale and spider mites — treat with an insecticide.

Safety

  • Handle the plant with gloves and don't touch your eyes or mouth.
  • If sap gets on your skin, wash with soap and water; if it gets in your eyes, rinse thoroughly and see a doctor.
  • Keep it out of children's rooms and away from cats and dogs that might chew it.

Synadenium in a pot
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FAQ

Why is it called the "love tree"?

Because of the reddish, heart-like leaves of the red form.

Does synadenium flower indoors?

Rarely: mature plants sometimes produce small red flowers in winter.

Can I root synadenium in water?

You can, but it's more reliable to dry the cutting and plant it straight into a light mix — there's less risk of rot.

Find more easy-care plants in UFL's houseplants section, and read about houseplants that can cause allergies and irritation in this article.

Author Maria Svitlovir
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Author: Maria Svitlovir

Graduated from Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, Institute of Biology and Medicine (2001). BSc in Biology, MSc in Horticulture. Writes about plants, works at a garden centre selecting and repotting plants, and contributes to plant reference guides.